The Camino de Santiago, September, 2016
Walking the Camino de
Santiago de Compostela has become very popular over the years. One can do the whole camino by starting in St. Jean Pied-de-Port in France or wherever you like. There are many routes ending at the same
place. In order to get your Compostela
certifying that you have walked the camino, you have to have walked at least
100 km, i.e. starting in Sarria where a great many people begin. You need a Pilgrim Passport which allows you
to stay at pilgrim hostels and receive your compostela which you can obtain in
your first hostel. You will need to get
at least two stamps a day in this pass in order to prove that you have walked
along the camino.
The traditional pilgrim
way is on foot, carrying all your “worldly goods”. Some people have their backpacks transported
to their respective hotels which might be a good idea if you are planning to
walk for the 30 or so days it takes from St. Jean
to Santiago. What you take depends on how long you will be
walking and what you feel you will need.
There is a wonderful book that almost everyone on the camino seems to
carry with them called “Camino de Santiago” by John Brierley which outlines
everything you need to know about walking the camino.
MY camino started in
Piedrafia Cebreiro at As Miguinas do Cebreiro about 4 km from O Cebreiro, a
little pueblo on the camino. I had taken
the 7:30 a.m. bus from San Sebastian which
stopped for 1-1/2 hours in Valladolid
where I walked into the center to get some lunch. There was an open air market that day with
food trucks, craft tables, etc. which was fun.
I picked up a tuna skewer and wandered around a bit before getting back
on the bus.
Arrived about 7:30 p.m.
and my host drove down to pick me up. I
checked in, got my pilgrim’s pass and took a taxi into O Cebreiro where there
was a festival going on. That is why it
was suggested to me that I stay out of town a bit as it would be a very noisy
night for me. I wanted to visit the Santa
Maria La Real Church and the cemetery and was fortunate as a service was going
on as well. The town is very old and
quaint with handsome stone buildings. I
enjoyed the festival and then had a tuna empanada in a little café before
returning by taxi to my hotel. I took a
hot shower, unpacked my little belongings and got a good night’s sleep, ready
to begin my long walk towards Santiago
in the morning…
Caught the 6:30 a.m. bus
into O Cebreiro which stopped in front of a little café which was already open
even though it was still dark out. Had
some toast, jam and delicious strong coffee while I waited for the sun to come
up. Checked my camino book which told me
where to start my walk and followed the yellow arrows and scallop shell camino
signs to Tricastela. I walked through
old villages, into churches and cemeteries, etc. stopping along the way to eat
my peach, get my pilgrim’s pass stamped and use the WC. There are many bars and cafes to stop in along
the way if one gets hungry or thirsty or just needs to sit awhile.
After 5-1/2 – 6 hours I
arrived at Albergue Complexo Xacobeo on the camino where I spent the night in a
quiet little room with hot shower and comfy bed. Had a delicious grilled salmon/salad in the
restaurant next door and then walked to the church nearby dedicated to Santiago. Took a shower and a rest before coming out
later to walk through the little town and pick up an orange for the next
day. Traditional torte de Santiago for
dinner at the outside restaurant next door.
I got myself on a schedule
after that, i.e. up at 7:15 a.m., breakfast at 7:30 a.m. and on the road by
8:00 a.m. when the sun was up. That
morning I had toast and jam/coffee before taking the Samos
road leading to the monasterio founded in the 6th century. Took an hour tour (in Spanish) and enjoyed what
I saw very much; although I didn’t understand everything that was said. Well worth the extra hour’s walk. Continued on until the road caught up again
with the traditional camino and arrived in Sarria about 3:30 p.m., stopping, as
was my schedule, about 11:00 a.m. to eat my orange/peach at an outdoor
café. Casa Baran was on the Calle Mayor
on the camino so as I walked up towards the churches there it was. A very nice hotel, perhaps a bit too
expensive for a pilgrim…Had a peach and ice cream for lunch.
Sarria is the second
largest city in Galicia
and it is where the majority of pilgrims start the camino so it was pretty
busy. Visited some of the churches and
the monastery before taking a shower and relaxing a bit. Walked into the center for dinner at Roma
Restaurant, a great bustling place packed with people having fun. Had to wait a bit for a table but it was well
worth it. Had some delicious grilled
vegetables and grilled salmon before heading back for a deep sleep…
There are many
accommodation options in the cities we stop in, i.e. dormitory-style rooms with
3, 6 and 9 beds, elegant hotels and simple rooms with or without baths which is
what I booked.
Croissant and coffee at a
nearby café in the morning and then back on the camino up towards the Monasterio
de Madalena, to the Ponte Aspera and on to Portmarin where I stayed at the
Ferramenteiro Hotel. Had booked a single
room but it was too noisy so I upgraded to a double room which worked out
fine. Walked into town to have lunch on
the plaza and then visited the Romanesque
fortress Church
of St. John and
walked around the town. It was supposed
to rain the next day so I picked up a waterproof cover for my backpack. Had dinner later that night at O Mirador next
door to the hotel, i.e. platter of grilled vegetables and grilled tuna – both
delicious. I sat outside on the terrace and
enjoyed the evening.
Had a croissant and coffee
for breakfast in the hotel’s café and started walking in the pouring rain. Had my waterproof jacket and luckily had
bought the waterproof cover for my pack so I just ploughed along. Stopped periodically to get in out of the
rain and finally stopped in A Brea at Meson A Brea for some delicious cream of
vegetable soup and torte de Santiago
and café as I was getting pretty cold.
Took another 30 minutes or so to reach Palas de Rei and Complejo La
Cabana where I was staying. Really nice
little “cabin” facing the green parkland and very quiet. When the rain stopped I walked into town,
stopping by the church and some monuments and also picked up a poncho for the
next day “just in case”. Dinner was
included so after taking a nice hot shower and resting a bit, I enjoyed a
delicious baby greens salad with white onions, tomatoes and hard cooked egg and
nicely grilled salmon on the bone, finishing with a flan for dessert. Washed out a few things which dried by
morning.
Buffet breakfast was also
included so had a chocolate croissant, coffee and a pear. My longest walk, i.e. 7 hours, was from Palas
de Rei to Arzua but, although it rained off and on, it wasn’t all that bad...
Stopped to visit the church of Santa Maria de Melide and cemetery along the
way. Decided to take a break for lunch
at Café Manuel near Ribadiso about 3 p.m. and enjoyed a delicious salad of
tomatoes, lettuce, onions, hard cooked egg and nice local soft cheese plus
torte de Santiago and café.
Arrived in Arzua and
checked into Casa Teodora where I stayed which was in the center of town. Even though it was raining, I wandered around
the town, finding a pastry shop for breakfast the next day and also Café Nene
recommended by trip advisor just around the corner. Made a reservation for later that evening and
had a wonderful dinner. Started with a
grilled vegetable platter with eggplant, zucchini, mushrooms, peppers and
tomatoes, followed by a half portion of grilled octopus with potato puree and
finished with a warm chocolate “coolant” cake with ice cream – all
fantastic!!! Perhaps the best meal I had
on the camino.
Chocolate croissant and
café at the nearby pastry shop and on
to O Pedrouzo which only
took about 4 hours. Beautiful day for
walking through the trees, up and down hills, etc. Lovely…Arrived in town and stayed at 9 Avril Pension. My room with private bath was very noisy so I
opted for the room without bath across the hall which was quieter and I could
open the window for some fresh air. Walked
along the main street to Galaicos which trip advisor had recommended for a
salad and then walked to the church on top of the hill. Returned to Galicas for grilled octopus and
potatoes later that evening, finishing with a warm chocolate cake and chocolate
ice cream, both delicious.
Chocolate croissant and
café and then headed to Santiago de Compostela, my last stop on the camino…Before
I reached the cathedral I found A Tafona do Peregrine, my hotel and checked
in. Later I continued walking into the
old town towards the cathedral, stopping first for a delicious cream of
vegetable soup and arugula salad with goat cheese, pears and walnuts at La
Flor.
Spent a couple hours in
the cathedral in all its glory. Walked
up to the high altar to ascend the stairs and hugged the Apostle, who presides
over the main nave, thanking him for a safe camino, as tradition requires. Beneath the altar, in a silver reliquary,
which you pass as well, lie the relics of the saint. Wandered the streets of the old town,
enjoying its uniqueness. Went to the
7:30 p.m. pilgrims mass at the cathedral and saw the famous swinging of the
giant incense burner and heard the words from the priests from around the
world. It was very moving. Had dinner at a tafona restaurant which was a
bit “out there” but the chef was well acclaimed so perhaps I just didn’t appreciate
her cuisine…
Breakfast in the hotel
wasn’t particularly exciting, i.e. peasant toast and fruit but the coffee was
delicious. Walked to the Pilgrim office
to get my Compostela, i.e. a certificate proving that I walked at least 100 km
of the camino. Walked back to the big
market housed in and outside of an enormous building across from my hotel and
enjoyed seeing all the fruits, vegetables, cheeses, etc. on display. Picked up some cheese and jamon for the train
trip the next day and then walked to the train station to see how long it would
take me…
Went to the 12 p.m. pilgrim’s
mass at the cathedral and then had a wonderful “celebration” lunch at Casa
Marcella, where I had eaten about 5 years ago and it was just as wonderful as
before!!! It is now more casual and all
seating is at the counter or a communal table but the food is remarkable. I had bonito skewers with marinated olives
and peppers, maki roll with spicy tuna, duck with pear chutney and finished
with coffee and a “tiramisu” shaped like a little ball filled with mascarpone
cheese – too good to believe!!! Wandered
some of the main streets, i.e. o franco, novi, villar, etc. and then went back
to rest up for the evening.
About 7 p.m. I went back
into town to enjoy the evening’s wander.
Stopped at La Flor again on my way back for the delicious arugula salad
with goat cheese, etc. and a chocolate dessert.
A really cute little restaurant where I sat by the window and enjoyed
being there.
Took a nice walk in the
morning around the old town, passed by the cathedral and then back for breakfast.
Walked to the train station, arriving in
plenty of time to board the train which departed for San Sebastian at 10:06 a.m. Won’t arrive until late that night so had
plenty of time to reflect upon my camion and savor the experience…
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